Year Abroad: Semana Santa Part 6 – The day I played in two processions

After the excitement of the bullfight, and it was exciting or at least it filled me with adrenaline and nervous energy, it was time to start gearing up for what would round off my Semana Santa experience – Easter Sunday marching with the band.

When I first found out that I was going to be able to play in a real life Semana Santa procession I was bouncing off of the walls.  To me these are one of the truly unique Spanish traditions – lo Español -, at least to the extent that they go to.  And to take part in one in my town which is relatively devoid of foreigners was just amazing. 

The night before we found the correct church…in fact it was third time lucky…just goes to show you how many churches there are in such a small area.  So we knew where we were going.  My mums job was to take my picture as I marched so that I had a keep-sake of my once in a lifetime experience.  I found the area where my band were getting ready and got my music folder.  They were all asking me about how I enjoyed the bullfight and what I thought of it and I was interested to hear their opinions as well since this is an accepted tradition in their culture.  My answer was in the middle, so that I didn’t come across as hating what seems to be an integral part of their culture but also that I didn’t come across as advocating it.   One of the girls who is about my age said that she hated bullfights and how could anyone enjoy a feria of death.  This was the strongest opinion I had heard from a Spaniard, although one of my friends Reyes also really does not like bullfighting, but we haven’t really spoken about it much.  Then one of the old guys (I’m friends with all the really old men in this band whose names I don’t remember since they are the ones who talk to me) started telling me and some of the kids that after the bull dies they butcher it and eat it.  I’m still sure that he was making fun of us.

The hermanadad leaving the church

Martin, our conductor.  One of my favourite people in Baeza.

Marching

On Calle San Pablo in the centre of Baeza

Finding the next piece of music.

Me playing with the band

 

We were at the tail end of the procession as the drum and coronet band were at the front.  We waited until they had gotten far enough ahead of us and then we started.  This was the first time I’d ever had to march in time, play my trumpet and keep my eyes on the streets just in case there were holes (the only time I had walked and played had been the day before at the bullring).  It was hilarious trying to match my stride to the two guys next to me because there was a small 11 year old on one side and a giant 20 something on the other…our strides do not naturally match up.  The next challenge came whenever we had to change music because since we didn’t have a set list we had to try and hear Martin shouting the names.  I’m proud to say that there was only one piece that I couldn’t find in time to play it. 

We marched for a total of three hours with plenty of breaks in between, standing waiting on the streets as the people watched the slow procession.  By the time we got to the park we were all hot and a little bit fed up.  When one of the old men leaned over to get a drink out of the fountain, another turned it all the way up and soaked him.  Luckily he took it in good humour and we all had a good laugh as Antonio had to walk the rest of the way a bit damp. 

Being that Baeza is such a small community, it was no surprise that some of my kids would be in the crowd.  It was however a surprise for them to see me playing.  When I went into school on the Tuesday they were all really excited that they’d seen me and one little boy went into a huff because he’d missed it.  That was adorable. 

My uniform without the jacket.

After the march I went and sat in the centre of Baeza with my mammy.  I was exhausted but far too hyper to even consider sleeping.  And anyways I had to do the whole thing again in just a few hours. 

The second procession was El Nino.  It involved both a trono carried by adults but also a special one carried by really young children.  The music we played was much more upbeat and it had more of a party atmosphere to it.  This was shown when the trono carrying Mary began to dance…well sway from side to side and bob up and down.  People on the balconies threw rose petals and flowers onto it. 

And then it was all over.  I had taken part in, and completed, another once in a lifetime event.  That made two over the course of two days.  I loved being able to take part in such a Spanish tradition along with my band.  And I definitely enjoyed the marching much more than the bullfight.  This was definitely a highlight of my year.  Made so much more special by the fact that my mum was there to see it…it meant that it definitely wasn’t a dream.