Sunday, November 20, 2011

Year Abroad: The weekend where I ate too much, got to know the band a bit better, played musical chairs on a farm and then played at mass…




                Yesterday was the lunch to celebrate Santa Cecilia the patroness saint of music.  This celebration consists of eating, drinking, dancing and spontaneous shouting of “Viva Santa Cecillia” to which the crowd responds “Viva”…or when we translated this into English as a laugh “Long live Santa Cecilla”...”Live”.

Me and my adopted hermanita Paula
I was picked up at around half 2 and we went to a large function room in Casa Antonio which is just a little bit outside of Baeza.  When I got there Martin (the conductor) introduced me to everyone and two Spanish girls (who are cousins) told me to sit next to them at the meal.  We all went in at around 3 o’clock and started our ridiculously big lunch.  We had a little menu thing, which I forgot to pick up to take home, and I assumed we had to pick like one thing from each part…nope…we were eating everything on that menu.  The starter course was a selection of tapas.  Olives, nuts, cheese, ham, bacon-wrapped dates, pork slices, prawns, king prawns (although since those are foods of death for me they made me a salad).  Then a soup with eggs and bread, which I didn’t like very much.  By this point I was almost full to bursting.  They gave us a small amount of time before our main course of pork sirloin and potatoes.  In Spanish sirloin is solomillo and this prompted renditions of “Oh Solo Mio” in honour of the food.  After the pork we were given our pudding.  This was a pastry with nuts and coffee beans on top with cream in the middle and vanilla and coffee flavoured ice cream.

Oh solomillo...
They stole mine before I finished :(


During the meal I apparently wasn’t eating enough so Juan Francisco (trumpet player) kept telling me to “comé!”.  All the food was absolutely delicious and I loved meeting and getting to know the other players better since I’d only ever seen the backs of their heads.  It also gave me an invaluable opportunity to practice my Spanish since not many people are bilingual.  The meal lasted until around about 5 o’clock then there were some speeches.  Martin welcomed all the new people and we all had to stand up.  He extended a special welcome to me since I am from Scotland and a bit of a novelty.  He said to think of the band as my family here in Baeza and they have certainly welcomed me as such.  I feel very comfortable with them and look forward to each rehearsal.  It is also something that is mine alone.  I share the school with Megan and a lot of the time I share Spanish friends with the other assistants.  But this is mine and that feels good.         

    
After the meal we all went downstairs and it turned into a disco.  They put on songs that everyone would dance to as well as a lot of flamenco for the old people.  One of their songs is like a version of the Superman song…a choreographed dance to a song called “Chu Chu Wa”. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsGvqqM1HzI&feature=fvst   This is a progression and you start by saluting, marching, up until you have your head looking up, tongue out, shoulders touching your ears, hands out with thumbs up and your bum sticking out.  The disco was good fun and Teresa taught me some flamenco moves and I taught them parts of the “Gay Gordons”.  One of the little boys sang two flamenco songs.  He is so cute, 8 years old, and he was singing at the mass today.  The disco lasted until around half 7.

After this I went with Paula and her family to a pub where everyone was meeting for some drinks.  It was up one of the back streets and it was a very nice pub.  JuanFran made me play a game of fooseball with two other guys and I think we may have lost…I really can’t play that game.  That was a laugh and I think that means they are starting to accept me.  I’m becoming part of the fabric.  After the closely contended game I went and sat and talked with Paula, Teresa, Maria and the French horn player’s young sons.  I don’t even really remember much of what we talked about…this is actually a problem as I don’t remember many things when people tell me in Spanish.  I met a girl, Eli, who is studying in Granada and she has told me that when I go there I’ve to let her know and I might be able to stay in her flat, at the very least she’ll meet up with me and show me around.  There was a lot of discussion about a band member who every year on Santa Cecilia gets drunk and is a bit of a slut.  One of the guys, Eli’s boyfriend, was saying how last year he’d had to pull her skirt longer so that she wasn’t exposing herself.  When the crowd starting thinning, at around half past 10, Paula told me that her and her family were going to someone’s farm for some food (yeah more food…) and would I like to get changed first before we go.  I got changed into my jeans and then her dad took me to their house and they had to sort some stuff out before we went.

Paula’s flat is very Spanish…well it would be.  In her living room they have their sofas positioned around the table with the brazier in it.  This is a wonderful thing and I really don’t know why we don’t have them in the UK.  Just underneath the dining table have a heater and a big tablecloth to cover your legs.  On their dining table are a lot of photographs in frames.  She said that the table was a shrine to her sisters as she is only in one of the photos.  On their wall they have photos of the three girls when they made their communions except these are professional ones done in studios.  Her dad was in the kitchen just casually slicing up a pig’s leg for the ham.  Immensely good.  We then all headed to the barn where we met up with Teresa’s family, the French horn player’s family and Maria’s family (the ones who own it).  Everyone had brought something for us to eat.  There was chorizo, bread, eggs which they fried over the fire in a big metal pan, the Serrano ham, orange slices in olive oil and sugar, and towards the end of the night Teresa’s mum left to make gachas dulces which is a traditional desert in Andalucía.  It is made with fried bread, fried nuts, and a lot of milk and flour.  Honestly it was amazing.  The crunch of the bread against the thick creamy pudding, so good, I must learn how to make it. 

Paula's dad cutting up the leg of ham

I spent a lot of time chatting with the kids.  Then when they started to play hide and seek I went and sought some adult company.  I was talking to Paula’s dad and he told me that he used to be in the Marines and had spent a lot of time in the USA.  I’ve never heard him speak English though because we have a deal to only speak Spanish so that I can learn.  We toasted Santa Cecilia a few more times and then the kids wanted me back so I went and played musical chairs and Chinese Whispers.  The rule for musical chairs was that whoever got put out had to sing the music for the next round.  It was fun to make Teresa’s six year old brother Pepe sing as he was getting a bit bored.  Luckily there was a pig in the corner which Sebastian is fattening up to slaughter for his birthday on Thursday.  Poor Rufina the 5th.  They will cut, gut and de-pelt her in a metal basin on the floor and then hang her sliced down the middle until she is ready to be eaten.  Even though I have grown up around farms and know that animals get slaughtered and have no problems with that it was strange that they do it all themselves.  They said that to kill her they will stick a spear behind her ear and drain the blood.  Then they laughed at how much they must seem to be brutes.

Pobrecita Rufina 5th
Pepe (6) with a plate of chorizo
My other hermanita Teresa
I eventually got home at around two am and had to go straight to bed as I had to be up, along with everyone else who’d been there last night to play at mass in the Cathedral this morning.  I fell asleep watching Still Game.

Now onto today.  Today was the mass is honour of, you’ve guessed it, Santa Cecilia.  I had to be at the Cathedral for quarter past 12 and as I was walking up people were letting off firecrackers.  I really hate the lack of health and safety here when it comes to things that are actually dangerous.  The mass lasted for an hour and a half.  We played through our stuff and three of the younger children were singing the mass, and then finished with el himno de Baeza.  This is a march and very beautiful.  The lyrics are all about how Christian soldiers spilt their blood in the conquest of Baeza and how they are in the service of Spain and God. 
“Fuiste nido enhiesto gigante
de los bravos guerreros que ayer
noble sangre por Christo donaron
como riego fecundo de fe.

Y blandieron invictas espadas
por Castilla y su reino sin par
conquistando Baeza tu fama
Gavilanes de tu nido Real.

Fuistes, Virgen bendita
la capitana de esos recios infanzones
y ellos, nobles baezanos
allá en tu Alacá zar culto dieron a tu amor.

Eres, pues nuestra reina
vida y dulzura de esta tierra que te adora
de esta Baeza querida
joya andaluza noble y bella como el sol.

Volveremos con brio creciente
a luchar port u antiguo esplendor
y reharemos tu fama oh! Baeza
               al servicio de Espana y de Dios

              Forjadores de la patria chica
              despleguemos ardour sin igual
                para hacer que Baeza perviva
                Ciuadad noble, gentil e inmortal.” 

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